kauai and oahu

Without knowing a lot about the major Hawaiian islands, it's easy to see the contrast between Kauai and Oahu. One is quiet, lush, introverted. The other is bustling, paved, and puts itself out there.

Small communities of natives lived in the valleys on the west coast of Kauai for a long time, farming taro and making the long journey to more populated parts of the island to trade.

Honolulu, looking west from Ala Wai canal.

Dozens of people have died at this beach.

The proving grounds. Pipeline.

Zide

He's shy. He doesn't like other creatures very much. He came from an oceanless planet in a distant galaxy, searching for fresh breaks and tasty waves. His home planet used to have seas teeming with life and energy, including some of the best swell in the universe, an interstellar surfer's paradise. Slowly but surely, his species' presence in the ocean turned the water to acid, and shortly after, the planet began to die. Hopping from galaxy to galaxy, planet to planet, riding waves when and where he can, he is content. His needs are simple, easily satisfied by harvesting the bounty of life in the shoals. He is always moving. He is Zide.

coffee with greg

Waiting for the surf to arrive. Making coffee in a make-shift shooting range.

solstice parade

It happens every year, there is a day that is shorter than all the other days. If you have a hobby that depends on daylight then you gotta be quick about your business. For surfers, a two session day is not common, just get in the water and take advantage of the swell that is in the ocean.

ripples

Little ripples from far away.

new year

The ocean has been giving gifts of all shapes and sizes this holiday season. We've been running around trying to unwrap as much as possible. Merry winter and happy new year.

Finding some nice lines away from the coast.

Looking for gems in the soup near Ocean Shores.

Ask and the Jetty delivers. Merry Christmas from Westport.

(note the surfer paddling to the left for scale)

snow surf

There's something so damn novel about surfing in the snow. Really though, the water temperature is the same as it always is. Cold. So regardless of what happens to be lying on the ground, your toes are still going to turn into cold pickles. Just hope the wind doesn't pick up. Happy holidays.

tomas

Working long swing shifts manufacturing computer memory chips in Boise, Idaho, Tomas is as stoked as anyone. A few weeks ago he flew into Sea-Tac, hopped in my truck, and rode out to the coast for a couple hours of surf. Whatever you're doing out there, enjoy the hell out of it.

fridays

Early morning fridays lead to empty roads and empty longboard waves.

winter surf

Surfing Washington in the winter involves many things. Long drives on the 101, checking out big trees, and plenty of ding repair. After consuming a certain amount of glassy waves and ridiculous scenery with your closest friends, the days begin to blur together like forgetting to focus a frame with a rangefinder. It's as good a reason as any to shoot a few photos.

Unknown cover-up at Hobuck Beach.

A good place to look for a wave.

Rock baseball, waiting for the push, Rialto Beach.

Big Cedar.

A Hemel dinger.

There is low wind and there is no wind.

Getting a grip for the hike.

Hello, Canada.

Get on it.

Port Angeles.

Hangin' with the boys.

A good reason to stay.

smiles

Smile on the mountain, the road, and the beach.
Smile with a face of deep snow stupor.
Smile because it's important.

sunset sessions

The Oregon coast is many different things to many different people. For us, it's the sport of surfing. Camping comes with the territory, cold misty mornings, spot checks along 101, failed dawn patrols. It's easy to get antsy, spend too much time in the car, just to get skunked at every spot. If the trip is long enough, good conditions are bound to roll through. Make sure you're in the water when they do, can't catch waves from the beach. At the end of the day it's always enjoyable to be on the coast, wearing your best cheeser, and soaking in the sunset.

Wright's for Camping, a nice little place in Cannon Beach.

Highway 101.

Waiting for coffee to brew before the hike.

Cape Lookout. Big sets were double overhead and a half. No one paddled out.

Concrete surfing when the waves go flat. Smooth, Oregon transitions.

Dry line at camp.

Locals only.

Ecola State Park.

Hemel fish.

Happy campers. Say cheese.

Cape Kiwanda. Big wave sunset.